Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Circle Tour Part III: Close Encounters with Remnants of Michigan’s Original Forest and Lakeshore

Hartwick White Pine

Surely the original pines of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula timber belt are all gone, every one. Not so I discovered almost thirty years after first seeing old black and white pictures of the big logs in the book stacks of U of I’s library. It turn’s out there’s a 49 acre remnant stand overlooking the valley of the East Branch of the Au Sable River in Crawford County. It’s preserved in Hartwick State Park. With that image still in my mind of a horse-drawn sled laden 30 feet high with pine logs as wide as Michael Phelp’s arms winning the Olympic 100 meter butterfly, I set out two weeks ago on a pilgrimage to Michigan’s last stand of ancient Eastern White Pine.

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To get there would be according to a method worthy of a pilgrimage. I would add to the white pine Mecca the goal of hugging the edge of another vestige of Midwest wilderness, Lake Michigan. In fact, starting in Chicago, I would drive the entire length of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula portion of the Circle Tour around the great lake, staying right next to the shore line.

This route and its first guide book, now out of print, were the work of tourism promoters led by Jack Morgan of the Michigan Department of TransportationCircle tour icon 2 in 1987. Distinctive signs were posted along all the 1,100 miles of Lake Michigan's shoreline. After studying the official route, however, I decided that it wasn’t pure enough for me. I saw little roads nearer the lake than the official route.  The designers even allowed for four-lane freeways that struck me as profane, in defiance of the romantic memory I have of a time when two-Burma shave 2 laners were the rule. Slow travel is  less divorced from the  landscape and promotes a richer travel experience. You can see more. It’s more educational. I remember, for instance, learning verse reading Burma Shave ads along the little roads in the scrub country of Florida while growing up. “Better try; Less speed per mile; That car may have; To last awhile. Burma Shave”  I thus would proceed  to alter the route so that I would stay on  two lane roads that were in closest proximity to the lake.

This proved to be a challenge. Such a circuitous route made out of interconnected pieces of roadway was like tracking the migration meanderings of a living, breathing animal. Roads change, especially given how Michigan rivers emptying into the lake most often have small and large natural lakes around which lumber-era harbor towns formed that one has to skirt around. Maps don’t agree, such as about the inevitable closure of the main routes through the many growing harbor towns and their rerouting farther east. It was like Boone hunting bear. I found myself tracking obscure signage like broken twigs and veerings in the road like oddly placed footprints. I learned that municipal, county, and state roadway jurisdictions don’t operate with uniform clarity and standards of maintenance.

Circle Tour sign Sheridan RdCircle Tour route follows Sheridan Road five blocks from my house.

Get ready, the cat is loaded with day’s worth of Priority brand fish-flavored nibbles, check. Get set, the car is loaded with camping gear and two coolers, one for food, the other for beer, check. Go, but only after sating the OCD tendency of reviewing security repeatedly with audible chants. (e.g., “The door to the basement is locked. The extra key is under the sill. The mail has been stopped.”), check. The Circle Tour started just down the street on the lake. Lakeshore Drive to downtown Chicago is my daily commute. Continuing on down the drive, which is U.S. Highway 41, it merged with combined U.S. Highways 20 and 12 at 95th St. Veering left onto Indianapolis Blvd., the combination lost 41, which veered right as Calumet Blvd, and continued as combined 20 and 12 into East Chicago. I turned left onto Industrial Highway to continue on 12, leaving 20 that continued south and east. Industrial Highway became 4th Ave. through Gary. 12 merged again with 20 to become the E. Dunes Highway. U.S. Highway 20 veered off again to the right as Melton Rd, and U.S. Highway 12 as Dunes Highway all by itself headed east out of Gary.

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Travel along the south shore of Lake Michigan was ridden with tolls to avoid, overlain with stark images of crusty American industrialism, and hot. Old cement embankments, originally poured in perplexing patterns of infrastructure, and now decayed and weakened by their battles with water erosion and pioneering weeds poking through a puzzle of cracks, slowly gave way to more open urban spaces wafted by a sense of the blueness and staid ballast of nearby Lake Michigan.

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U.S. Hwy. 12 along the southeast curve of the lake is one of the Blue Star Memorial roadways that pay tribute to active armed forcesimages personnel. National Garden Club chapters  have maintained signage of such roads since 1945. It skirted sand-swelled Indiana Dunes National  Lakeshore, distinguished by the University of Chicago’s Henry Chandler Cowles who performed pioneering work there in the study of  ecological succession. I had been taken to it for the first time when a graduate student for a plant ecology class at the University of Illinois. U.S. 12 continued past it to New Buffalo where Sheryl Crow would be playing at the town casino.

Then the trickiness started. The Red Arrow Highway nearer the shore somehow veered off from U.S. 12 near the Indiana-Michigan state line. I wanted to take this in lieu of the official Lake Michigan Circle Tour route that puts the traveler on Interstate 94. It was confusing, but bearing left put me on it in a manner that I don’t remember and off of U.S. 12 that continued east along the old 1820’s highway between Fort Dearborn in Chicago and Detroit.

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Named after the 32nd Infantry Division of WW I fame, the Red Arrow Highway followed the lakeshore lined with quaint resort towns that include Grand Beach, New Buffalo, Union Pier, Lakeside, Harbert, and Sawyer. I had waited till after leaving town to fill up the gas tank, which was bound to be cheaper outside Chicago. Sure enough, an independent pump in New Buffalo was selling gas for $3.48 per gallon (vs. $3.85 in the city).

I made lunch on a picnic table at a free beach I found that the locals use. It was next to Warren Dunes State Park. Whereas the park charged a $5 daily user fee, I ate and then swam for free. I had to scrounge to find it. The locals don’t advertise.

Red Arrow then veered east in St. Joseph. I had to get off it and onto something other than Michigan’s other Blue Star Highway, U.S. 31, a part of which has been overridden by Interstate 193, with other long stretches north upgraded to freeway standards. Unfortunately, it’s also much of the Circle Route up the lake’s east shoreline all the way to the Mackinaw City Bridge that goes over the Straits of Mackinac to the Upper Peninsula. From this point on I’d have to watch carefully to stay off it and lakeside of it.

That other something in St. Joseph was M-63, which followed old U.S. 31 to Hagar Shore where it then veered right. I stayed left. I was now on Blue Star Hwy. or County A-2. 10 miles north of Hagar Shore and 3 miles north of Palisades Nuclear Power Plant at a Y in the road I veered left onto 76th street a625t DeGrandchamp blueberry farm. I saw a man riding high in the cab over a blueberry harvesting machine that rumbled along on wheeled stilts between the rows of blueberry bushes while shaking the branches and letting loose a cloud of little blue dots into catch trays. Pick-yer-owners wandered elsewhere amid the bushes. I followed 76th Street to where it turned into Monroe Blvd. on entering the town of South Haven.

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Right on the lake, I passed a public beach. It was hot, and I was going to cool off there. Parking half a block east on a side street, access was easy. But first I had to find shelter in public to change. I used open car doors next to a van in an otherwise vacant lot. Lake Michigan’s east shore gets the prevailing Westerlies. And South Haven is far enough north for the winds to hit the beach broadside. The air and water were clear as glass. Waves crashed the shore. It was bright like the South Pacific without salt, and sun reflected in flashes off the water like a Morse Code mirror. People looked happy. A sailing frigate left the pier that had a lighthouse on its end. I set the cooler and chair in the sand and enjoyed liquid refreshment both inside and out. Just lovely with a quality way higher than that offered by the artificial sand public beach down the street back home in Evanston, open to the public with an $8 token. This beach was free.

I crossed the Dykemann Street bridge, turned right onto Northshore Drive and left back onto Blue Star Hwy. that follows old U.S. 31 or County Rd. A-2. In the little town of Glen, I got off at 70th Street, followed it to St Rd M-89. I turned left onto 68th St. or County Rd. A-2 with views of the lake up past Douglas and Saugatuck, two towns across the street from each other. Intrepid lake-hugging took grit.

Time was running out on the day, with many miles still left before reaching a tucked away campsite called Driftwood Valley in the Cadillac/ Manistee Ranger District of Manistee National Forest. So at Holland I booked up a long freeway stretch of U.S. 31 toward Manistee. That was OK. The plan was to drive inland to the Original White Pine, then up to the Mackinaw City Bridge, and then thread the absolute lake edge on two lane roads down to Holland.

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The sky grew menacingly black. I booked at 70 mph east on State Road 55 through the forest. It was sprinkling. Then the deluge began. At Wellington I turned south into the forest’s interior. Taken from a website was the following instruction.

“From Wellston, take Seaman Rd. south 3.9 miles through Dublin. Just beyond the grocery store, turn right, staying on Seaman Rd. and go 3 miles to the town of Irons and 10 1/2 Mile Rd. Turn right onto 10 1/2 Mile Rd. and go 2.5 miles to Bass Lake Rd. Turn left onto Bass Lake Road (south) and go 0.9 miles to 10 1/2 Mile Rd. At 10 1/2 mile Rd., turn right and go 0.8 miles to the campground.”

Confusing? Yeah; “Simon Says” in a torrential downpour at dusk. Instinct and odometer readings were my GPS along with rolling down the fogged up window to read signs in the storm. The last “10 1/2 Mile Rd.”, for instance, was “10 Mile Rd” in the real world. Intuition replaced instruction in order to be confident that the latter was wrong.

Then a sign said “No camping, day use only, go to Bear Track to camp.” What? No way. It was getting dark and pouring. During a break in the storm I hustled my tent together before it really began to dump water. Sheet lighting with out thunder raged right overhead like strobe lights in a disco. A cold front had come to fight a warm one, so, it still being warm and me still in swim gear, I stripped to the waist and sat in the tent to learn never to put a tarp under a tent. Edges just catch the rain and built a deepening pool for the tent to sit and capsize in. There was no let up so I just swam to the car and let Jackie Evancho’s CD’s bring tears to my eyes while scooping cold pesto with corn chips and swilling beer. Two hours later it still poured. I lifted the dome tent, scrapped the tarp, poured out the puddle like a tea pot, put in the bag, and hoped to stay dry. Stormwater pelted deafeningly onto the tent’s rain fly like a waterfall for twelve hours.

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So the web site was out of date. The Forest Service had closed “The best kept secret in Michigan.” That morning I realized why. The Little Manistee River gurgled through a magnificent second growth dry-mesic deciduous forest of northern red oak, white oak, shagbark hickory, and some red and jack pine. The forest floor was open and park-like, completely free of the invasive European buckthorn and garlic mustard that chokes the Cook, DuPage, and Kane County Forest Preserve Districts back home. Dainty flowering natives dotted the sandy soil instead. Filtered skayaking-the-little-manistee-riverunlight dappled the grainy deck. Patches of ferns accented the more shady areas. No point in spoiling that. The campsites sat silently where decaying  posts lined gravel parking pads that  indicated their former positions. I was alone. I had the only picnic table and fire grate. So I spent the day drying out, exploring the creek, watching kayakers drift along Little Manistee River, and reading in a camp chair with a fire and hot food to keep me company until the next morning, enveloped by the best kept secret in Michigan.

At 8 am the rain came back. But I was packed up and spent the second torrential downpour driving on to Hartwick park's rolling hills, built out of ancient glacial deposits that separate the Manistee and Au Sable River watersheds. The rangers were nice, asked if I had a poncho, gave me a map, and got paid the $8 daily use fee.

Hartwick Old Growth 4

Bearings set, encased in new rain gear, I trekked into the Last Stand. The rain just continued to drizzle, but kept the public sequestered in the picnic shelters and campground. I passed through a lot of regenerating red pine until I got to the center. What I saw was reminiscent of the alluvial flat groves of Sequoia sempervirens, the California coast redwoods, accented accurately on this day by drizzle like that of the wet coastal winters in northern California. Here was a classic original northern dry mesic pine forest, Old Growth, the Ancient Forest primeval, unmolested by man, Mecca. Pattering rain and solitude magnified the immensity. I looked up and up. The interior of this grove consisted of a rare type of climax community. All members are shade tolerant types, with their young able to grow in the dim light of this dark temple. Eastern hemlock, American beech, and sugar maple all contributed to the Hansel and Gretel-like darkness. The dominant type, however, occupying the emergent canopy strata of this grove, was 400 year old “original” eastern white pine, the king of pines east of the Mississippi.

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*In his important first book, The Mountains of California, naturalist John Muir attempted to evangelize the reader regarding the “glorious” white pine of the west, Pinus lambertiana, sugar pine. I hadn’t needed the coaxing. The species had already made an impression on me. I knew that their cones are the largest of the pines, 18 inches in length. I remember one that sat on a cupboard in a communal house in Urbana in 1979. A young woman enrolled in a forestry master’s degree program at the University of Illinois and taking dendrology pointed to it on a tour. I concurred with her, since I was quite familiar with the species having hiked John Muir’s Sierra for years. Later we got married.

*wedding announcement, hand-drawn, sepia pen and ink, Urbana, 1985

What Muir said about grand old sugar pine speaks well enough of its eastern cousin.

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“The trunk is a smooth,* round, delicately tapered shaft, mostly without limbs, and colored rich purplish-brown. At the top of this magnificent bole, long, curving branches sweep gracefully outward and downward, sometimes forming a palm-like crown. The wispy needles are about three inches long, finely tempered and arranged in rather close fascicles of five at the ends of slender twigs that clothe the long, out-sweeping limbs… No lover of trees will ever forget the first meeting with the sugar pine, nor afterward need a poet to “listen to what the pine-tree saith.” …The sugar pine is free from conventionalities of form and motion. No two are alike; and, notwithstanding they are ever tossing out their immense arms in what might seem most extravagant gestures, there is a majesty and repose about them that precludes all possibility of the grotesque, or even picturesque, in their general expression. They are the priest of pines, and seem ever to be addressing the surrounding forest.”

*wedding announcement, hand-drawn, sepia pen and ink, Urbana, 1985

Hartwick White Pine 2

I sat down, dug my hand past the thin topsoil to the gray B horizon of the classic Kalkaska sand, and said a prayer of thanksgiving for being able to witness this relic postage stamp of original American wilderness. It makes me think now about “wilderness,” an ambiguous term freighted with meaning of a symbolic and deeply personal kind. I remember a cartoon series about the eighth century English epic Beowulf that I drew for my high school senior year English class. It examined words such as deor (animal). Prefix it with wil (intent), and you have wildeor, which means willful creature not under the control of man. The antagonist in the Beowulf tale is a wild, savage, fantastic beast inhabiting a dismal forest such as this. He must be subdued.

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The hero Beowulf subduing the villain Grendel in the classic Old English epic

Much of the writing of the American author, Nathaniel Hawthorn, that coincided with the beginning of the depining of Michigan’s forests, preserved the visceral repulsion of the wild landscape that early pioneers, especially Puritans, brought to America. To Hawthorn, wild country was “black” and “howling.” It symbolized man’s dark and untamed heart. In The Scarlet Letter, the primeval forest around Salem, Massachusetts represented the moral wilderness that Hester Prynne wandered in for so long. Even though it also represented freedom from social ostracism, such total license would inevitably lead to irresistible temptations. Concomitant with the human soul, subduing it, reclaiming it, civilizing it was a moral imperative.

Also coinciding with inauguration of Michigan’s big timber era, was the Frenchman Alex De Tocqueville’s 1831 trip to America that generated his big books Journey to America and Democracy in America. By July he arrived in Michigan Territory in order to see wilderness for the sheer pleasure of it. Not wanting to see it for its utilitarian potential, lumbering and land speculation, mystified his American hosts. He wrote, “Living in the wilds, (the pioneer) only prizes the works of man,” while Europeans valued wilderness because of its novelty. He concluded, “In Europe people talk a great deal of the wilds of America, but the Americans themselves never think about them; they are insensible to the wonders of inanimate nature and they may be said not to perceive the mighty forests that surround them till they fall beneath the hatchet.” Americans were about subduing America.

Since the modern term wilderness really isn’t a thing (place); rather, a status or process, it was hard to fathom while sitting there what this forest must have really felt like when attached to the rest of the lower peninsula of Michigan in presettlement times. And ecologically, the predator beasts at the top of the food chain, indicators of true wilderness, are gone, the wolverine, badger, grizzly bear, and, of course, the timber wolf. They either have been subdued or the forest is not extensive enough to support them. The most one can hope for in the fragments of ancient Douglas-fir forest in Oregon where I went to school is the spotted owl, which got listed as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act of 1973. I remember how much a bone of contention it gave the timber-dependent folk in Klamath Falls, Oregon where I taught my first year of school in the late ‘80’s.

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That the Hartwick pines exist today is a fluke of economics and ironic human need. The Salling-Hanson Logging Company out of Grayling was busy cutting into this area in 1893 when the national economy collapsed. The infamous time is known as the “panic” of 1893. Lumbering operations everywhere ceased. Back to normal in the 1900’s it was deemed impractical to return to this area because it was too small to justify refitting it for logging operations. So it sat. It would have eventually been cut, but in 1927 Karen Michelson Hartwick purchased over 8,000 acres of land, which included these once 85 acres of old growth, from Salling-Hanson. Mrs. Hartwick was the daughter of Nels Michelson, a founding partner of the logging company. Soon after that, she donated the land to the State of Michigan as a memorial park to be named for her late husband, Major Edward Hartwick who had once partnered with her father. As ironic luck would have it, the daughter of a timber baron saved this old growth to commemorate a timber baron.

Hartwick Old Growth

Can this forest sustain itself? Probably not. The old growth dates back to major fire disturbances during the Pilgrim era of American history. Pine germinates on open, sandy soil, free of cover and competing hardwoods, conditions fire provides. Hundreds of years later, trees are big enough to withstand periodic ground fires. I saw lots of charring on the behemoth trees. These fires thin the forest of competing understory, and the big trees just get bigger and poke higher above the canopy. Natural regeneration of climax community growth then occurs piecemeal. When a giant falls, it opens up a “light gap” in the canopy. Understory species compete to fill it, beech, maple, and hemlock, but not white pine. The forest floor has no bare soil for pine seeds to germinate in, and it’s too dim for shade-intolerant pine seedlings to grow up anyway. I saw no younger pine in the understory near the light gaps. Even if there was pine, the absence of predators nowadays has given a huge deer population chances to wander with a voracious appetite for pine needle browse.

So what will likely happen? Wind storms, such as the hurricane-force one on Armistice Day, 1940 that reduced the stand by one half because of its vulnerable small size, and old age will eventually take their toll. When the giants are gone, they’re gone. I and you can’t buy early tickets for the next show centuries from now.

I camped with the locals in a roadside state forest campground near the once logging headquarters of Graying. Problem with them is they have an inordinate fondness for fireworks, especially on weekend nights like that one. Knots of teenagers around their campfires got drunk enough for remorselessness in their noise-making.

img126My Scott 1069 plate block commemorating Soo Locks that manage changes in elevation during ship passage between Lake Superior and Lake Huron; first sold by the U.S. Postal Service in Sault Sainte Marie June 28, 1955; signed by stamp’s designer, picture engraver, and letter engraver

I drove U.S. 131 and the official Circle Tour U.S. 31 in cheery sunshine up to Mackinaw City to begin the lake hug south to Holland. I passed a packed fair of small engine enthusiasts in Charlevoix County. Gasoline combustion as a power source completely replaced steam in the woods, the mill, and everywhere between by 1920. I left 31 at Carp Lake and took County C81 through the wetland scrub to Wilderness State Park, which juts out from the LP’s northern tip into the lake. I set up the beach chair system with books and beer overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. As I sat and read, I watched a big, red, classic-looking lake hauler coming in from Lake Huron. The bay was shallow and strewn with rounded stones. Getting out into the deep required breast stroking over them. I floated on my back and watched a least tern hover like a helicopter before diving after luckless fish like a Dauntless bomber during the Battle of Midway.

To get to Petoskey on Little Traverse Bay required driving back roads not on the map to the lake edge of Emmet County’s convex curvature. Once there, St Rd M-119 wound like a roller coaster through the “tunnel of trees,” a profligate thicket of hemlock and maple saplings, mostly. I pitied the would-be vacation and retirement home owners who thought they had found Shangri-La. They had, given the stupendous views of Lake Michigan way above the water line20100713P Escanaba to Grayling 029 . But only some had afforded the necessity of uprooting the toothpick forest of the tunnel to get at the view. The road was only one lane, with a pair of painted white lines marking the two edges. Bulleting a fast Ferrari through the forest past the hamlets of Cross Village, Good Hart, Harbor Springs, and Wequetonsing would have been exciting, but the Honda Accord did alright.

M-119 merged with Circle Tour U.S. 31 in Petosky. I meandered it’s mostly two lane width down the lake shore to Traverse City. There were state forest campgrounds east of it, but I got lost looking for the unmarked road up to Mayfield in the forest that accessed them. A local at a cash register confirmed I was on the right one, Co Rd 611, Garfield Avenue. The dirt road the campgrounds were on was not on the map. But it showed they were located along Boardman Creek that winds down to the West Arm of Grand Travers Bay. I turned onto the dirt road right after crossing a creek, figuring it was the right one. The sign said River Road, but it was actually “Brown Bridge Road.” Miles of dirt took me nowhere. So I ducked down a sand incline figuring it would hit the creek where I’d set up a camp. I had 5 gallons of water, so it didn’t matter not to have access to a campground well. The car almost got stuck in loose sand. Luckily it hit a dirt road, crossed the creek, and there was one of the campgrounds.

Primitive state forest campgrounds are the cheap get away destinations of the Michigan locals with modest incomes. I wedged in a spot between RV’s and pitched the tent, scrounged for firewood, and set up for frying chuck, adding beans and a can of cubed tomatoes, and McCormick chili mix. A sign said No Fireworks, but I could hear them on the other side of the forest road. The people on my side made nary a noise, all bound up by their metal cocoons, sight unseen. A half moon hung in the clear sky over my campfire.

Traverse bay

Grand Travers Bay that separates the mainland from Leelanau Peninsula is bisected into the West and the East Arms by a rail-thin peninsula traversed by St Rd M-37 out to a now defunct lighthouse. A sunny drive past little wineries took me to Old Mission where one of the first permanent store buildings still operates. This area was first settled by whites when the Presbyterian Board sent a man to minister to the natives in 1839. The Indian Bureau sent others to manage their presence, no longer free to do as they pleased. A recreated school house/church with the original bell cast out of coin offered a historical retrospective. Ottowa and Ojibwe natives taught the minister that cherries, apples, and other fruit trees grew well. Orchards dominated Old Mission light house the economy till 1970’s when the first imported French grape root stock was stuck into the sandy soil. Generations of the same family had run the store until recently. Bicycle tourists and church goers congregated out front, a Sunday morning. I read the weather forecast in a paper from the newsstand. Mission Point Lighthouse, right on the 45th Parallel, once guided mariners through the west side of the bay. The Coast Guard decommissioned it in 1933. The desk clerk had grown up in Geneva, IL, so we chatted about changes along the Fox River since I had lived just north in St. Charles for many years after she had left Geneva.

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M-22-Euphoria-by-Chris-CerkA zig-zag back down M-37 and up M-22 took me to the end of Leelanau Peninsula. M-22 then hugs Lake Michigan down to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Seashore. The North campground was primitive, no RV hookups. I got one of the last 3 available for a $12 fee. This 30 mile-long park is a composite of former state and private holdings. The main feature is the huge dunes that have formed atop clay and gravel plateaus making many 450 meters high. The second growth back of the huge dunes indicated a healthy mixed hardwood forest community, again, with no invasive growth choking the ground. Downed firewood of high quality was the most plentiful of the trip. I gathered a bunch, set up the tent and lit out for restored Sleepy Bear Point Lighthouse Station.

6212654650_9921f64b6f_zBefore its decommissioning at the start of WWII, the station guided mariners through treacherous shallow, rocky shoal waters of Manitou Passage between North and South Manitou Islands. Military regimentation and constant training kept coast guard personnel ever ready to release life boats from the boathouse by rail which were then hauled by horse down the beach to the latest wreck.

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I set up my beach chair station on the empty beach with a view out to the islands and watched the sun drop low in the sky. Then I hiked unspoiled wilderness between the lake and the interior woodlands. I followed xerophytic beechgrass and sand cherry pioneers on shifting dunes into more stationary dunes held down by mesophytic, later-successional stage creeping juniper and jack pine. Being natural plant communities on ever-changing, self-renewing dunes, a refreshing vitality permeated my observations on this hike.

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Next day, a hike in the bluff forests farther inland revealed open woodland of northern hardwoods, including mid-successional red oak, white ash, and black cherry, and late-successional American beech, sugar maple, and eastern hemlock. The rancher who once owned this forest managed it well. Selective logging still left behind superlative maple and some of the largest understory cherry, famous for the big board furniture represented by some of my antiques, that I’ve ever seen. The highest point afforded a grand view of Sleeping Bear Bay and the Manitou Islands. A cadre of high school cross country runners out on an exercise run high fived me on my way back.

NatPark 1Sleeping Bear Point from midway down national lakeshore park

I’m glad my intro to this park was from the north end. The south end, dominated by Platte River and its run to the lake was congested with RV campers who were dependent on the full hook ups in the much larger developed campground and who fed the local economy that catered to the dominant entertainment, high density canoeing, rafting, and tubing down the Platte River to the lake. I drove on past.

Circle Tour M22 ends

I drove the most coastal route, M-22 down to Manistee and then drove the two-lane U.S. 31 that I had raced up earlier in the week before the big rain down to Ludington. The economic downturn of 2008 has put many a vacation or retirement home on the market but, enchanted by the sights down famous M-22, I stopped anyway at a realtor’s in the bitty harbor town of Onekama and perused the possibilities. Stops in other harbor towns big and small, all filled now with recreational sail and motor boating infrastructure and their clients, reminded me how, historically, these towns around the natural river mouth lakes were once harbors choked with logs and the mills responsible for sawing up and shipping out 162 billion board feet of the legendary white pine.

Bowers or Good Harbor MI Grand Traverse Bay

The last episode was to complete the Michigan shoreline trail of the Lower Peninsula, based strictly on two-lane travel. I had bypassed the two-laners in Ocean County in my haste to make camp before that big rain. It was perhaps the biggest challenge because the lake huggers were only county roads, specifically “B15.” I began with Business U.S. 31 into Pentwater. The turn off out of town onto B15 was elusive. I got lost. Finding it finally, I drove a spider web of left and right turns to keep on it, and the signage was sporadic at best. I saw dune buggies ply the high dunes of Silver Lake State Park with which winds have blown shut Silver Lake’s access to Lake Michigan. At the head of the harbor in Whitehall, I got lost again looking for the coastal road to Muskegon’s huge harbor. Successful at last I drove past the mansions along Muskegon’s waterfront, realizing that lawns under their big trees were reminiscent of my fight to return a similar habitat to natural conditions, chronicled here. And their harbor view was of the biggest coal-fired electrical generating plant and the coal pile that fed it I’d ever seen, the fight against such energy transfer which I chronicled here. Feeding the pursuit of wealth and showing off its conspicuous trophies often produces dubious results it seems.

Now that my shore-hugging and relic white pine tree-hugging mission had been accomplished, I got on the freeways to beat tracks back to Chicago. I was worried about my cat. As a strange but fitting finale, a good paddling buddy of mine in another Midwestern wilderness, the Boundary Waters Canoeing Area of Northern Minnesota, who I hadn’t seen in a year, during which time he had gotten himself married, drove past me south of Grand Haven. Recognizing each other, we stopped by the side of the road to chat, amazed at the chance encounter.

In the movie Jeremiah Johnson,  Robert Redford’s character, a rugged trapper and social outlier, was riding horseback in the trackless Colorado mountain wilderness when he chances upon a fellow trapper, also on horseback. Of course they would bump into each other out of the blue. The whole territory was theirs, and they weren’t surprised to meet up with each other at all. I’d like to think that bumping into my friend in the vast expanse of Michigan away from Chicago means that wilderness in the Midwest still exists. It actually does, if you make concessions involving attitude and posture. Used to backpacking in rugged western wilderness and canoeing trackless north woods lakes, I have had to make compromises with ideas about wilderness, given my age. Like the slide buttons on my computer’s digital image manipulator for color, exposure, contrast, and the like, wilderness too has slide controls, if you let it. I have used them in order to alter my perceptions of the landscape, always keeping in mind that, over time, wilderness changes along with the minds of its beholders. Trees grow older. I grow older. A wiser conservation ethic slowly grows. Little blue recycling boxes on the curb now are 50 gallon containers since people are willing to buy stuff made of recycled materials. Once that was unheard of. Maybe I can’t pop 70 pounds onto my back and hop 2,500 feet in elevation in a day’s hike without careful planning and cautions that before I never gave thought to. But I can find primitive camping opportunities. On promontories high above the beaches from Benton Harbor to Petoskey, bright lake water glistening like glass while receiving impossibly mellow wafts of prevailing westerly  winds mesmerized me and sent me sky walking in a seventh heaven. Like it’s written, wilderness is in the mind of the beholder.  So of course I would meet my friend “over there in the wilderness.” He too, a changing wilderness purist wise enough to recognize what can and cannot be seen, was traveling in a landscape of many changes.

Hoffmaster-State-Park-Pictures

The Michigan wilderness, as everywhere else, has been forced to surrender its natural barriers to American progress, prosperity, and power. Metaphor, the howling absence of God’s bounty that can be had only in the Gardens of Eden, met actuality, the tall tree wilderness  conquered and pillaged of its timber wealth. After settlement, it slowly became those more human inspired wilderness gardens of Eden on the sand plains of Michigan under the former stumps. Everywhere I went, I saw picturesque, gladsome grape vineyards, blissful blueberry farms, and cheery cherry orchards. Aldo Leopold’s conservation ethic had grown to replace rape and run economics in Michigan. Extension agents started working with land holders to manage their moorings in the landscape. One of the most eye-opening exhibits in a nature center was an interactive computer tutorial that offered choices if one were to inherit a second-growth mixed hardwood forest. Immediate timber harvesting for a payoff of $14,000 but then being forced to let the state acquire it later because that choice had reduced its productivity and future taxes couldn’t be paid became, instead, a series of informed management decisions that made less money, but enough to allow more ecologically sound improvements over time and thus allow the land to remain in one’s family for the future. This changed economy, meanwhile, had given me a glad opportunity to wander in a different manner of conveyance than in the past, adjusting the slide button along the wilderness continuum perception scale a little more toward the civilized, urban extreme, and  still satisfying the need to get out into it while I still can.

END OF PART III.

CLICK HERE FOR PART 1 AND HERE FOR PART II

 

Sunday, July 8, 2012

House at Pooh Corner: Arrested Adolescence and Coming of Age in a ‘70’s Intentional Community

In the spring of 1971, I participated in a little part of the life-style movement of the counter culture that began to emerge in a sleepy college town in the bucolic Willamette Valley of Oregon.

H at PC 2

“House at Pooh Corner is a new kind of living arrangement with a new kind of name,” wrote Barbara Blaire of the Oregon State University Barometer, the student-run newspaper. “Finding seven students from Poling Hall who were seriously interested in communal living plus four other friends, two students from Poling went about finding a house large enough for this type of cooperative living situation.”

Since Pooh House was the first instance of its kind in Corvallis, a radical departure from conformist containment by the ruling authorities who in those days controlled how students were to be housed off campus, we were required to seek permission from the housing authority or at least to appease it.

“Robert Lawrence of the Geology Department, interested in the living group, gave his support and adult backing to the 13 students,” chronicled Blair.

I’m sure we didn’t appear to be radical young protestors and dropouts who needed a base of operations from which to promote insurrection. It was more likely that repressed sexuality lingering in the hinterlands far from Haight Ashbury and the East Village put visions in their heads of orgies and debaucheries stemming from unbridled permissiveness.

It certainly was a time during which many reconsidered dominant paradigms as participants of the post ‘60s counter culture. It was also a time during which many explored their sexuality unfettered by the constraints imposed by unseated moral authorities.

But we simply saw it as a chance for inexpensive housing within which to continue fostering solidarity with our student friends while pursuing our educations.

Eeyore mt899894324

“Yoohoo, Eeyore!” she called to me, the surmised sullen one, that spring near the Quad. That’s how the Pooh name came about, from a fantasy of two of the Poling seven who sought to project A. A. Milne’s story, animated by his son Christopher Robin’s stuffed animals, onto their surroundings and their friends. They got the idea from the song House At Pooh Corner, penned by Kenny Loggins for the album Uncle Charlie and His Dog Teddy by Nitty Gritty Dirt Band in 1970.

So help me if you can I've got to get

Back to the house at Pooh Corner by one

You'd be surprised there's so much to be done

Count all the bees in the hive

Chase all the clouds from the sky

Back to the days of Christopher Robin

And Pooh

The song House at Pooh Corner was like a paean to the reexamination of priorities while conducting alternative life styles during the ‘70’s on the part of a disillusioned baby boom generation in retreat from the exhaustive ‘60’s decade of insurgencies and radical political protests. The 17 bedroom house once on the corner of 10th and Adams streets was selected to be  the site for our experiment. Blair referred to it as “a new life style” conducted in a house “that was a former boarding house, fraternity, sorority, and now a coop (within which) lists are put up on the refrigerator doors saying what needs to be done, and everybody signs up for whatever they have time to do.”

H at PC 1

Late Summer ‘71; The sign advertizing “Rooms” when a flophouse would be replaced by a homemade one, “House at Pooh Corner”

During the summer of its inception a few of us charter members managed rooms for summer school students in exchange for rent until the fall when the rest returned to start the living arrangement. Old, worn furniture filled the house. A WWII poster on the wall admonished that we provide “Bundles for Britain” to that country under siege. We'd  sit on dilapidated couches in the living room in the stifling heat watching the matriarch played by Barbara Stanwyck undermine the intentions of the bad guys in The Big Valley, two back-to-back episodes of the original Star Trek, and Jack (“Just the facts, Ma’am”) Webb get to the bottom of the investigation in Dragnet, while flicking ashes into the vintage stand-alone trays, each on its own little stilt.

“Well, I bucked hay that summer,” my friend rejoined. “I’d come home to Mandolin Wind by Rod Stewart on the stereo, sweating like a pig and drinking beer with (you guys) and a few other occasional cast members. I don't remember what kind of beer it was but inside the caps were little puzzles with which to amuse ourselves. We listened to a lot of Santana, Cat Stevens, and Elton John. That  job was the first hard manual labor that I loved. It didn't last long enough. As soon as the hay was in the barn we were unemployed again.”

202792The order of business on the occasion of Pooh’s inauguration was simple: get up late, go find work in the fields, come home exhausted, manage the lease by collecting rent from summer roomers, maybe get stoned, watch TV, economize with cheap meals, such as Kraft cheese dinner, six for a buck at Richie’s, stay up late talking and listening to music, and crash.

Trips on weekends could be had for the price of a cup of coffee in the Hard Hat Lounge in Toledo over on the coast. We’d get there free by hitching rides atop the chip hoppers bound for the Georgia-Pacific kraft paper mill when the train slowed down on its way through town. We’d burrow snugly into the fragrant chips of Doug-fir to ward off the cold as the train lumbered into the night over the Coast Range.

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The air in Toledo would be pungent with sulfur fumes while we waited to hitch back once the cars were emptied of their chips. The locals drinking late night coffee would eye us suspiciously. The timing had to be just right to meet up with the train. The thrill of  “riding bronco” into the wind and the rising sun atop the lips of those things when the train picked up speed on the downhill into town was like Slim Pickens riding the bomb hurling toward Earth in the movie Dr. Strangelove.

Cat Stevens - Tea For The Tillerman - Front

Questioning priorities: Where Do the Children Play? by Cat Stevens

Well I think it's fine, building jumbo planes.
Or taking a ride on a cosmic train.
Switch on summer from a slot machine.
Yes, get what you want to if you want, 'cause you can get anything.

 
I know we've come a long way,
We're changing day to day,
But tell me, where do the children play?

 
Well you roll on roads over fresh green grass.
For your lorry loads pumping petrol gas.
And you make them long, and you make them tough.
But they just go on and on, and it seems that you can't get off.

(Refrain)

Well you've cracked the sky, scrapers fill the air.
But will you keep on building higher
'til there's no more room up there?
Will you make us laugh, will you make us cry?
Will you tell us when to live, will you tell us when to die?

(Refrain)

Bonding between members of a peer collective after each has left home is common for the biographies of individuals that make up western societies. Pooh House convened and celebrated a small, intimate, self-supervised “crowd” that served as a makeshift extended family or “clan.” I think the modern university helped to foster this sort of thing as a byproduct of the need to train a more sophisticated work force for the abstract and intricately technical economy and to keep from overwhelming the labor pool with too many unskilled workers. It has been instrumental in prolonging the developmental stages of adolescence and young adulthood. These include, strategic to the incident of the House at Pooh Corner, the need to resolve the conflict of identity formation, choosing an appropriate (occupational) identity, or suffering the consequence that Erick Erickson called “role confusion,” and the conflict of intimacy, finding it, or else suffering the consequence he called “isolation.”

Someone made a wire mobile that spelled out everybody’s name and hung it in the living room. Another wrote the names of all in phosphorescent poster paint on the basement wall in the area in which impromptu gatherings of Pooh people listened to Leon Russell, Leonard Cohen, and Van Morrison. One couple on the third floor entertained the others up there with proper “tea parties.” Fads came and went, such as ping pong competitions in the dining room.

Icon of an era

Meanwhile, we roustabout semi-urban communists satisfied the need to eat cheaply by filling a freezer with half a cow of butchered meat and, in the days before food stamps, applying for government surplus that included bulk cheese, canned fish, flour, beans, and rice. Peanut butter and cheddar cheese sandwiches quickly became a favorite.

By this time, the hard beat of acid rock had given way to a softer sound more conducive to contemplation and self-examination. Top of the charts included Carol King’s Tapestry, and James Taylors’ Sweet Baby James. It accompanied numerous pathos-ridden mini-dramas as students coupled and uncoupled with much emotional intrigue and turmoil. Here one would sit for hours in a stuffed chair, secretly admiring and fantasizing about another to the plaintive sound of John Denver’s Poems, Prayers, and Promises. Meanwhile her object of affection shaved his beard to lament his unrequited love for yet a third who, instead, had chosen a fourth person to be her lover. All nighters were common, and not for the purpose of studying last minute before exams, rather, for the purpose of holding intensive discussions that explored and resolved disputes and misgivings regarding interpersonal relationships, or else, warmed by the glow of many lit candles, for the purpose of celebrating the sacred mysteries, aided by the plaints, offertories, and pining of Moody Blues’ On the Threshold of a Dream and To Our Children’s Children’s Children.

coverUnsung masterpiece: Lyrics to Lightfoot (a tribute to fellow Canadian Gordon Lightfoot) on The Guess Who’s brilliant Wheatfield Soul

Sidemen come out first
John Stockfish base guitar
Looks at the world through the eyes of Nashville,
The Riverboat and Charlie McCoy
He's just a boy

The lead guitarist Red Shea who's really come a long, long way
since rhythm rocker jingle jangle
And go Red!

And Lightfoot
Edwardian, suddenly striped
His hair blondish and poetic
He is less than vinyl perfect
His foot is a precise anchor for the husk and vibrance of his voice

He is the image of Alberta
The side street near Chicago
The grim beauty of Toronto

He is an artist
He is an artist
He is an artist painting Sistine masterpieces of pine and fur and backwoods
Still echoes long ago the winter night of black July and then the outcome
Of an early Cleveland rainfall

I sit softly among the rest waiting there for him to paint his pictures
And as the go-go girl went round and our heads were in a spin
I thought about
The Crossroads, In the Early Morning Rain and Rosanna

I'm not saying that I'm sorry
I'm just telling you this story
And when Lightfoot's magic calls
You can write it on your walls
'Cause that's what walls are for

These activities took place, of course, with a grave sense of urgency. Even more grave was a backdrop of unsettling reality in the greater world order. One student, not surprisingly, was letting the social experimentation usurp adequate academic progress. This was despite how his draft number, pulled at the start of the Pooh year, was eleven, guaranteeing a call up, were he to lose his student deferment.

img111Selective Service Registration Certificate (“Draft Card”)

“I got put on academic probation that fall,” he recounts. “The School of Forestry released me too. My parents in Virginia sent me back to OSU after the winter break with the tuition for one more term to get back into good standing before ‘joining the military branch of my choice.’ I secretly plotted the lofty plan to take 19 hours Winter Term and 18 hours Spring Term to regain my 2S student deferment status and avert being drafted and very likely shipped off to Viet Nam.

“One of those classes in the 19 hours was economics  that convened at the ungodly hour of 7:30 am. I rarely got to it, even missing the two midterms. But I studied the book religiously. When I asked the professor the week before finals to take make up midterms, he asked, ‘OK. Which one?’ I will always remember what he said when I told him both, ‘Well, son, the monkey’s on your back.’

DongHaVietnam1966

“I proceeded to write for three hours, took the final the following week, and got a C for the course. Made a 3 point on the 4 point scale that raised my GPA to above a 2 point and then got bussed to my AFEES (Armed Forces Entrance and Examination Station) physical in Portland that spring break, planning afterward to petition my draft board for a reinstatement of the 2S student deferment.

Canada

“On the bus ride up, I thought about a ride I got from some dudes on my way back from my solo expedition from Giant Forest to Yosemite in California’s Sierra Nevada  just before the school year started. These guys picked me up in Petaluma and drove me to Pooh House’s doorstep. Then they headed on to their final destination: Canada in order to avoid the draft.

“To my surprise, I flunked the exam. When the line of immanent draftees was told to turn around and bend over, the staff physician noticed I had a benign cyst at the base of the spine. Can't bounce around on jeep seats or it's liable to become infected, and they don't want you on your stomach for two weeks while it heals after they remove it. My board sent me a 1H classification, temporary exemption from active status, with the message, ‘See you in a year.’”

Meanwhile, two other Pooh House companions petitioned for and successfully won Conscientious Objector status from their draft boards. They were assigned  social work in a medical clinic and field labor in a work camp, respectively, as alternative service.  Nightly news of the Viet Nam war effort on that old black and white TV had provided the ominous soundtrack to these sobering campaigns.

In front of Pooh House 1971-72“Long shadows, bare trees, specter of the draft ‘71-‘72, embracing fate the way a mouse embraces it when the hawk's talons are near”

Icon of an era 2

Certain special vehicles transported more than mere bodies from point A to point B in those days when gas was $0.32 a gallon. They transported adventurers. The Volkswagen Fastback shown above was such a magic carpet car. The following is taken from its travel log.

H at PC 3

Trip #1 Mt. Rainier, above, summer '71

Livermore Valley Summer 71

Trip #2 (above): Summer fog banks on the Livermore Hills after an all night drive down HW 101 to visit owner’s parents, summer ‘72.

Trip #3 Escape town for Livermore, broken-hearted over the loss of its owner’s girlfriend to another lover, winter ‘73 (I found him lying heart-sick on the couch the night I returned from the winter holiday in Virginia by getting a ride from a ride board with a guy who had his riders help him drive 85 mph round the clock to L.A., getting there in less that 48 hours, then hitching north, getting a ride with a dude who said he’d be selling his car for $100 in Seattle and going off to live on papaya in some Hawaiian cave. My fastback owner friend left that same night. He recounted later how he’d found this same ex girlfriend hitchhiking in northern California, picked her up, then, on second thought, dropped her back on the road and continued on to Livermore.)

Trip #4 Ride to eventual 4-week backpack solo in the Sierra by way of a shoplifting bust at an Albertson's over baggies for gorp and a 3-day stay in the Yolo County Jail during which hard timers tattooed themselves with needles in the melted ends of toothbrush handles and magazine page ashes mixed with water for ink, while the car’s owner headed on to a summer job at a casino in Reno, summer ‘73

Trip #5 Ride to owner’s folks for Thanksgiving '73, a wondrous meal made by his grandmother at her farm in the Livermore Valley, sold by means of immanent domain to the government, along with his parent's farm, when the federal Livermore Labs expanded their buffer zone

Trip #6 Ride as a summer emigrant to Sparks, NV to work the 2 am to 10 am shift at John Asguaga's Nugget where I suffered a serious infatuation for a married black jack dealer, summer ‘74

Trip #7 Its owner taking off for Reno forever in the early summer of '75, the summer two good friends (not Pooh House people) took off with “Bo and Peep’s” Heaven's Gate cult, only to commit suicide in '97 when their space ship, hiding behind the Hale Bopp comet, arrived to take them away from this decadent planet according to the tenants of a modern Gnostic hybrid they called Heaven's Gate

The House at Pooh Corner lasted only a year. But vividness of memories of that year is commensurate with the formative associations it fostered  and the lasting values it instilled.

“It is remarkable to me how my experience at Pooh House has remained such a powerful touchstone for me all these forty years,” my best friend in those days said to me. “Somehow it seems that although there are so many details that I remember about that year, they all seem to be tied together by such a strong sense of yearning. And that sense of yearning has propelled me through the decades since: to live in a different world with different rules, for a world where we could all talk about how we loved each other in the light of day, a world where work had meaning and each of our intellectual and emotional capacities had a place to develop and be nurtured by our companions along the way, a world where our passions had a home in the small tasks of everyday life.”

Monday, March 5, 2012

For Want in the Public Domain: Why I Can’t Call Myself a Hero

Today is a holiday, sanctioned by the state of Illinois in celebration of Revolutionary War hero and Polish immigrant Casimir Polaski. As a Chicago high school teacher who’s been given the day off, I’m spending it thinking about how one goes about becoming a hero. The status appears to be quite elusive, and not too many people seem to be able to achieve it.

img082Scott 690, Casimir Polaski commemorative plate number block of 45

Recognizing and honoring the status appears equally elusive. Chicago may be the only city in Illinois that deliberately and unequivocally celebrates the day, given Polaski’s American hero status amongst the largest Polish community outside Warsaw residing here in Chicago. My school doesn’t even bother to explain to students the man’s heroism before releasing them to enjoy a three day weekend. Meanwhile the school district I live in, Evanston Township, battles the tension between promoting holidays that are merely state-sanctioned, as opposed to more robust federal-sanctioning, and promoting student achievement of learning standards that too are state-sanctioned. At its February 27 meeting, the District 202 School Board held a hearing to consider requiring attendance on Pulaski Day. It doesn’t even refer to it as a holiday; rather, a “non-attendance day.”

Should celebrating heroism take a second seat to better chances that, say, one’s times tables, or spelling “separate” with an “a” and not an “e” , or how to apply the binomial theorem when analyzing change in allele frequencies in populations, stick in student’s minds? How do you even explain heroism, let alone celebrate it?

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There’s of course an aura about heroism through military manliness, which is pretty easy to imagine. “Once more unto the breach, my dear friends,” Henry V cries in Shakespeare’s play, his heroic words in defiance of peacetime’s placid “stillness and humility.” The romantic image of Shakespeare's Henry V (depicted above by Sir Lawrence Olivier) is inspirational, but it is also in stark contrast to the authentic image of the king and his army who fought at Agincourt, said to have been barbaric and not in any way chivalrous; rather, the actions of an overzealous band of war criminals, setting fire to prisoners and killing French noblemen who had surrendered.

734 Roessler CV B4 25  x 3 Chicago postmark $12.50 Scott 734, cachet by Roessler, catalog value $75 Chicago postmark

My plate number block postage stamp collection, including first-day covers (envelopes franked with the plate number block of stamps and cancelled on the first day of issue), is replete with images of alleged military heroes. Take Tadeusz Kosciuszko, another Polish American hero. His commemorative stamp was first placed on sale October 13, 1933 at Chicago, Boston, Detroit, Kosciusko, MS, St. Louis, Buffalo, and Pittsburgh in connection with the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of his naturalization as an American citizen. I remember seeing the statue that inspired the engraving when helping to bury my father, a 30 year Navy veteran and hero to us, in Arlington National Cemetery with a flag-covered casket and a twenty-one gun salute. The statue is south of the White House, set in the grand concourse that stretches from the Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial.

734 CV32.50 $8.55 pbso $8.05 Scott 734 plate number block, catalog value $32.50

Joining the American Revolution, Kosciuszko became an officer in the Continental army, rising to the rank of brigadier general. A brilliant engineer, he constructed many critical defenses against the British. He didn’t aspire to heroic status. If asked, he probably would have admitted he was simply doing what he was highly qualified to do, sort of like Polaski who was trained to fight on horseback but was put on reserve status. Itching to get into the fight, Polaski had written many letters to Congress offering to outfit his own cavalry. Given approval, his legion became the colonists' first true fully-trained cavalry. He simply wanted to do what he was qualified to do. Perhaps heroism in this case was granted his ordinary valor out of our vision of “heroic” horsemen riding into battle and a visceral recognition that we are a nation mostly made up of immigrants.

What about heroism when not in deliberate pursuit, as a part of a collective, of “victory” over one’s common enemy, be it an army, an oppressive regime, a medical disease, forms of brute labor that force making a living a drudgery, or a “howling wilderness” that separates explorers by a beleaguering distance from home and security? What about ordinary, every day heroes doing their private duty as they best see it? When, if ever, do ordinary people get to be heroes?

734 P-12A Covered Wagon CV 70 x 3  Pitts adr to Gorham $18 Scott 734 Planty 12A, cachet by Covered Wagon, CV $210

The first day cover illustrated above was serviced by Albert Gorham, renowned amongst philatelists in the days of classic stamp collecting. Catching my eye are prophetic words of his written on a little insert that accompanied the cover when he first sent it and others like it to subscribers on his mailing list. “This first day of issue cover subject to your approval. 10c. Remit cash, money order, or unused stamps or return to Albert E. Gorham, 1240 8 St., NW, Washington, D.C.”

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“Subject to your approval…” I see this as a sign. It makes me think that one cannot apply for hero status. One cannot even aspire to it. A HERO is, technically, defined as a person who, in the opinion of others, has heroic qualities or has performed a heroic act. One becomes a hero when others decide, others who subject ones efforts to their approval. Hero is a category serviced by the social order.

2008-11-15 taken by Farrah Silberman 3

I think of thirteen year old Esme Louise Kenney, who is a hero of mine, a status I unequivocally bequeath her for who she was, which enabled her to do what she did. She did not fight or scream. She instead meekly asked her assailant, a serial killer of three previous women, including a fourteen year old girl, while he was attempting to molest her, if he had any children. This stopped his sexual attack in its tracks. He had a four year old son, kept from him by his estranged partner. So shaken by his murder of Esme, he neglected his characteristic maneuvers to evade law enforcement, broke under questioning, confessed all, was tried, convicted, and put on death row where he will never kill again. The three year anniversary of her passing is day after tomorrow, March 7, a day that, for me, lives in infamy. I plan on commemorating her on that day for her sudden, unsolicited, lonely act of utter heroism committed when most vulnerable in an isolated, ignored,  gnarly profusion of ugly invasive growth behind a profane, decaying reservoir.

Achievement of goals over and against great odds ought to grant hero status to all of us. Life is about overcoming trials that involve others. But gallant efforts in the pursuit of common, ordinary goals, becoming the best teacher of students you can be, raising children to adulthood in the best ways you know how, maintaining a decorum of honest, simple living on a little that will allow a more generous portion for the others, will beget heroic status only if others allow. It all depends on their approval. It also depends on what for me is a deeper sense for what it means to be a hero. If heroism is a set of character traits, realized in the world or not, called upon in the world to be enacted or not, it must include humility. Is this not at the heart of most cultural traditions, such as that of the ancient Greeks, who warned against hubris, who taught to let the gods be their own gods, while the rest be who they are, created as men and women? Contrast, say, the character played by Tom Hanks in Saving Private Ryan with, say, the character played by George C. Scott in Patton. One pericopae that was so embedded within the oral tradition of the early Christian Church that Paul the Apostle was only repeating it, rather singing as if it were a hymn, declared, “He did not count equality with God a thing to be grasped; rather, he humbled himself, taking the form of a servant.” Exaltation, on the other hand, comes always from without the hero. I address the following parable to someone very dear to me. It is a passage about King Solomon, son of perhaps the greatest hero in the history of ancient Israel, King David, my namesake.

Stages on Life's Way Princeton University Press, first English edition, first printing 1940

“Solomon’s judgment is well enough known. It availed to discriminate between truth and deceit and to make the judge famous as a wise prince. His dream is not so well known.

“If there is any pang of sympathy, it is that of having to be ashamed of one’s father, of him whom one loves above all and to whom one is most indebted, to have to approach him backwards, with averted face, in order not to behold his dishonor. But what greater bliss of sympathy can be imagined than to dare to love as the son’s wish prompts, and to dare to be proud of him because he is the only elect, the singularly distinguished man, a nation’s strength, a country’s pride, God’s friend, a promise of the future, extolled in his lifetime, held by memory in the highest praise! Happy Solomon, this was thy lot! Among the chosen people (how glorious even to belong to them!) he was the King’s son (enviable lot!), son of that king who was the elect among kings!

“Thus Solomon lived happily with the prophet Nathan. The father’s strength and achievement did not inspire him to deeds of valor, for in fact no occasion was left for that, but it inspired him to admiration, and admiration made him a poet. But if the poet was almost jealous of his hero, the son was blissful in his devotion to the father.

“Then one day the son made a visit to his royal father. In the night he awoke at hearing movement where the father slept. Horror seizes him; he fears it is a villain who would murder David. He steals nearer –he beholds David with a crushed and contrite heart, he hears a cry of despair from the soul of the penitent.

“Faint at the sight, he returns to his couch. He falls asleep, but he does not rest; he dreams. He dreams that David is an ungodly man, rejected by God, that the royal majesty is the sign of God’s wrath upon him, that he must wear the purple as a punishment, that he is condemned to rule, condemned to hear the people’s benediction, whereas the Lord’s righteousness secretly pronounces judgment upon the guilty one. The dream surmises that God is not the God of the pious but of the ungodly, and that one must be an ungodly man to be God’s elect –and the horror of the dream is this contradiction.

“While David lay upon the ground with crushed and contrite heart, Solomon arose from his couch, but his understanding was crushed. Horror seized him when he thought of what it is to be God’s elect. He surmised that holy intimacy with God, the sincerity of the pure man before the Lord, was not the explanation, but that a private guilt was the secret which explained everything.

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“And Solomon became wise, but he did not become a hero; and he became a thinker, but he did not become a man of prayer; and he became a preacher, but he did not become a believer; and he was able to help many, but he was not able to help himself; and he became sensual, but not repentant; and he became contrite and cast down, but not again erect, for the power of the will had been strained by that which surpassed the strength of the youth. And he tossed through life, tossed about by life –strong, supernaturally strong, that is, womanishly weak in the stirring infatuations and marvelous inventions of imagination, ingenious in expounding thoughts. But there was a rift in his nature, and Solomon was like the paralytic who is unable to support his own body. In his harem he sat like a disillusioned old man, until desire for pleasure awoke and he shouted, “Strike the timbrels, dance before me, ye women.” But when the Queen of the South came to visit him, attracted by his wisdom, then was his soul rich, and the wise answer flowed from his lips like the precious myrrh which flows from the trees in Arabia.”

-Soren Kierkegaard; Stages on Life’s Way, pp. 236-237

My hope, which I celebrate today, is that everyone gets to be the hero of someone else.

 
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